Formation through Wire
After you finish the first pruning, you should start changing the direction of the branches and trunk growth using wire. Some species easily adapt to shaping by twisting the wire, such as coniferous plants. Others have such hard wood that wiring is only possible on newly sprouted branches. The bark of some plants can be easily damaged when twisting the wire. Taking all of this into consideration, to avoid damaging the plant, beginners are better off practicing wire twisting on naturally existing plants first.
If you are using copper wire for shaping, it is easier to work with and becomes more manageable in hand if it is heated to red in a flame and then cooled in the air (not in water). Aluminum wire melts when heated, so it should not be heated.
First, you need to choose the appropriate wire diameter and length. The diameter should match the thickness of the branch: using thick wire on a thin branch has a high probability of breaking the branch, while using thin wire on a thick branch will not hold it in the desired position. For starters, let's assume that the wire thickness should be about 1/3 of the branch's thickness.
You should also determine in advance what length of wire you will need. A long wire will obstruct your work, while a short one will be insufficient, and you will have to remove it and rewrap with the correct length. In this case, let's assume that the wire length should be approximately 1/3 longer than the length of the branch you are planning to shape.
Wire Wrapping
First, the shaping of the plant’s trunk is done. If the seedling’s trunk already has a thickness of several centimeters, it is usually impossible to fix it in the desired shape by winding wire around it. Therefore, the shaping of the trunk by wire is only possible in the early stages of the plant's growth. A special fixer is used for shaping thick trunks and branches.
I would only recommend using such a fixer to experienced bonsai enthusiasts. For beginners, it is better to refrain from using such tools and perform the shaping according to the shape of the trunk.
When starting trunk shaping, the wire must first be firmly fixed at the starting point: the end of the wire, close to the trunk, should be pushed as deep into the soil as possible. Then, slowly, the trunk is bent in the desired direction while spirally wrapping the wire around it. It is important to ensure that the spacing between the coils is even. It is not ideal when the coils are too close to each other, as this can damage the plant. If the spacing between the coils is too large, it may be difficult to fix the position. The spacing between the coils depends on the thickness of the trunk and its elasticity. It is good when the coil is bent at a 45-degree angle relative to the trunk, as the wire bent this way is more effective and holds the plant in the desired position more easily. Of course, in many cases, it is not possible to wrap the wire “perfectly” like this, and there will always be some hindrance. But the most important thing is not to wind the wire “perfectly,” but to fix the plant in the desired position.
When shaping a wooden trunk with wire, the bending points must be chosen carefully. First of all, the bulging part of the bend should not be at the front, facing the viewer. Also, it is preferable to bend the trunk at places where the main, thicker branches are located.
When shaping branches, one end of the wire is fixed on the tree’s trunk, near the branch. First, a coil is made around the trunk, securing it well so that when the wire is wrapped around the branch, the coil around the trunk does not unravel or move. Slowly, the branch is bent in the desired direction and the wire is spirally wound from the beginning to the end of the branch.
We take one long wire, fold it in half, and wrap the folded part around the trunk. One part of the wire is wrapped around one branch, and the other part around the second branch. In this case, it is preferable that both branches have approximately equal thickness.
Pay attention to the second-row branches and buds. During branch formation, the wire should not damage either the buds or the smaller branches.
Extreme caution is required when making the wire frame. One wrong move could break the branch. If you hear any suspicious crackling or realize something is not going as planned, stop immediately.
If you decide to bend the branch in several places, try to do the bending at the locations where the second-row branches are positioned, as these are the places where branches naturally change direction in nature. The second-row branch should grow outward from the bending point, not inward.
If you don't have wire of the required thickness, you can pair the wires and wrap them around the plant.
The duration of wire fixation is 1-6 months. The time frame depends on the species of the plant, as well as the size of the branches and trunk. Coniferous plants need more time to achieve the desired shape than deciduous trees.
After wiring, always monitor the plant. As the branch and trunk grow in length, they also thicken. As a result, the wire slowly starts to embed into the plant's bark. If you notice this, you must remove the wire. If the removal is delayed, unsightly indentations may appear where the wire was wrapped. Healing such damage can take a long time, and the mark may remain on the branch permanently.
If you notice that the plant's bark is damaged while wiring, wrap a thick material or rubber around the branch or trunk beforehand, along its entire length. There is a special material (palm fiber) called "raffia," which is soaked and tightly wrapped around the branch or trunk, then the wire is wrapped over it.
When the branch or trunk is fixed in the desired shape, the wire should be removed. It is best to do this with the help of wire cutters. Cut the wire in several places. This way, you can easily remove it. If you try to preserve the wire during removal, you may damage small branches and shoots. If the wire was removed to prevent plant damage and the branch or trunk wasn't fixed in the desired position, repeat the wiring only after one season.
Wire Formation Time
Wiring can be done at almost any time of the year. However, each period has its own advantages and disadvantages. The optimal time for deciduous trees is when the plant is without leaves, preferably at the end of winter. During this time, the leaves don’t interfere with the work, the branches are more flexible, and the overall shape of the bonsai is better visible. When the tree has fully developed leaves, it is difficult to examine the whole structure, and wiring the branches becomes more challenging. However, there are cases when correcting the shape of a branch is necessary during the growing season. In such cases, wiring should be done very carefully to avoid damaging the leaves.
In spring, branches grow quickly in length and thickness, which increases the risk of the wire embedding into the bark and damaging it. Therefore, extra attention is needed after wiring in spring.
For coniferous plants, it is better to wire in autumn before the first frost.
Other Methods for Shaping Tree Trunks and Branches
It is common for changing the direction of trunk or branch growth to be easier than creating a wire frame. For example, trunk shaping can be done by fixing it on an iron or wooden axis. Or the wire can be fixed to the container, and the plant can be pulled in the desired direction.
As for branches, if we want to bend a branch downward, it can be pulled using wire or rope fixed to the container or root. This method requires force to change the direction of growth. To avoid damaging the branch, use something soft (like a rubber piece) at the point where the wire will be fixed, and then attach the wire on top.
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