Very often, due to the influence of natural phenomena, part of the tree gets damaged. This can happen from lightning strikes, prolonged droughts. Branches can break from the weight of snow and strong winds, or diseases and pests can cause certain areas of the tree to dry out.
To create the illusion of trees that survived harsh climatic conditions, a very specific method is used in bonsai formation. The creation of the "deadwood" effect by removing bark from a selected branch or part of the trunk.
Creating the "deadwood" effect can be necessary. For example, carelessness or other reasons may cause a branch of the bonsai to dry out. The branch may be entirely cut off, or even used during formation, the dry branch can be kept to preserve the bonsai's appearance. Another case is when forming a fairly large seedling, reducing height and adjusting an overly large branch to the desired size of the bonsai is often only possible through the creation of the "deadwood" method. But primarily, the "deadwood" effect is used to "age" the bonsai. The bark-peeled, dried parts give the miniature plant the appearance of an aged tree that survived harsh environmental conditions. These methods have become established in bonsai culture using Japanese terms JIN, SHARI, SABAMIKI.
JIN is a technique used to create the "deadwood" effect on a branch or tree top. The bark is removed from the entire length of the branch. As a result, the branch dries out quickly, while the rest of the plant continues to grow normally. Creating the JIN effect at the top of the tree allows for proportionate reduction of the tree's height without making it unnatural and without ruining the visual aspect of the bonsai. The removal of bark is easier and more convenient when the branch is alive (not dried out).
SHARI method involves removing the bark from the tree trunk. The bark is removed from the beginning of the surface roots, vertically, up to a certain height on the trunk. (It is possible that a portion of the bark from a large surface root is also removed). The peeled bark should not be in a straight geometric shape.
Choose the desired location for SHARI. Mark the area where you plan to remove the bark with chalk. Marking with chalk will help you clearly visualize which part of the tree's trunk will be left without bark. To avoid any mistakes, start by removing only a small strip; you can always expand it later. First, use a sharp knife or scissors to make an incision along the marked contour to avoid removing too much bark. Remember: If a branch doesn't have even a small strip of bark connecting it to the trunk, it will definitely dry out.
This process requires careful attention and patience. Never rush; it's better to take your time and proceed thoughtfully, piece by piece. It's better to carry out this work carefully over several weeks, or even a year, rather than hastily damaging the plant.
When the desired area is completely freed from bark, you can use scissors to “scar” the trunk surface, making it resemble the damage caused by natural phenomena. The surface must be treated with sandpaper. Make sure that no soft tissue from the bark and wood remains on the surface.
SABAMIKI – After the removal of bark, a hollow or artificial cavity is made in the exposed wood. The process starts at the base of the tree trunk, at the widest point, and narrows as it goes upwards. Everyone has likely seen a hollow in an aged tree. This method of artificially creating such an effect is called SABAMIKI.
Special pruning shears will make the job easier when working, which are used for artistic processing of wood. Also, a small drill with a flexible extension is helpful. Different attachments allow you to easily work on the wood after removing the bark.
In all cases, after finishing the work, the treated area must be covered with a special protective liquid. This is done using a mixture of kiri-sulfur, which protects the bark-removed areas from decay and disease. This ready-made mixture is available in specialized bonsai shops.
Its preparation is also possible at home:
- Pour 50 grams of quicklime into half a liter of water.
- Dissolve 120 grams of sulfur powder in the same amount of water.
- Place both mixtures in one container and boil for 1 hour.
- Due to sulfur's specific, unpleasant smell, do not prepare this mixture indoors.
Treatment with the lime-sulfur mixture must be applied immediately after removing the bark. This liquid penetrates fresh wood better. Before application, moisten the area with a spray bottle. If the mixture accidentally touches undesired areas (trunk, branch, or root), remove it immediately with a cloth. Application is done with a small brush. The liquid is yellow but turns a grayish-white shade over time, giving the “deadwood” a natural look. The treated surface should be reapplied with the mixture every six months. Work outdoors, and use gloves and protective glasses.
The best time for all the mentioned tasks is autumn or early spring. Creating the “deadwood” effect is one of the most challenging processes from an aesthetic perspective. It is difficult for an inexperienced enthusiast to execute everything correctly, avoid harming the plant, and, most importantly, ensure the final result looks natural and pleasing. To minimize mistakes, it is advisable to frequently examine images of bonsai created by experienced specialists and understand all the nuances thoroughly.
The JIN technique is usually applied only to coniferous trees. Deciduous trees quickly rot when bark is removed, while on conifers, dried sections retain their shape and appear natural if done correctly. SABAMIKI and SHARI can be successfully performed on both types of trees.
For deciduous trees, using pure lime sulfur is not recommended. While the white color is effective on conifers, it looks unnatural on deciduous trees. Specialized liquids for deciduous trees are available in bonsai stores, or black pigment can be added to lime sulfur for a darker shade.
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